Hair relaxers straighten extremely curly or coiled hair by breaking the disulfide bonds within your hair’s cortex layer, leaving you with beautiful salon-straight locks. However, this process is very harsh and can be damaging to your scalp and hair if not performed properly.
Relaxers contain a strong chemical called sodium hydroxide, which is also found in oven cleaners and paint thinners. During treatments, stylists must apply a protective base cream or petroleum jelly to the scalp to protect it from burning.
How Relaxers Work
Hair relaxers are chemical lotions or creams that can be applied to curly hair to give it a straight appearance. They work by breaking down the di-sulfide bonds found in the cortex layer of the hair, and then re-forming them while the hair is held in a straight pattern. This process is called lanthionization or perming, and it can be performed by professional cosmetologists in salons and barbershops, or at home with hair relaxer kits.
There are several different types of hair relaxers, including lye relaxers, no-lye relaxers, and thio relaxers. Each type has its own formula and strengths, but all of them involve applying a strong alkaline solution to the hair to break down the disulfide bonds. Then, the hair is washed and neutralized with a special shampoo. Once the hair is rinsed and conditioned, it can be styled as desired.
The lye relaxer is the most common and strongest type of hair relaxer. It consists of sodium hydroxide (also known as lye) mixed with water, petroleum jelly, mineral oil and emulsifiers to create a creamy consistency. When the lye relaxer is applied to the hair, it penetrates the protein structure of the strands and breaks down the internal bonds. The hair then swells open and becomes loose, resulting in the loss of the natural curl. After the lye relaxer is washed out, it is neutralized with a special shampoo and the hair is conditioned.
No-lye and thio relaxers use the same chemicals as lye relaxers, but at a lower concentration and pH. They also have a thicker consistency, which makes them easier to apply. These relaxers break the disulfide bonds in the same way as lye relaxers, but they are not as harsh on the hair and scalp. They do, however, have a tendency to dry the hair out.
When using a relaxer, it’s important to follow the directions carefully. Over-processing the hair can damage it, causing brittleness and broken strands. It’s also a good idea to avoid having another chemical treatment on the same day as the relaxer, such as bleaching or dying the hair. This is because the combined action of a relaxer and hair dye can cause severe damage to the hair cuticles and lead to damaged, brittle or broken strands.
No-Lye Relaxers
Hair relaxers are chemicals that are applied to the strands of curly hair to give it a straight appearance. Relaxers are used by more than two-thirds of all Black women, according to the National Center for Biotechnology Information (NCBI). The two most common types of hair relaxers are lye and no-lye relaxers. Both work by breaking the disulfide bonds that make your hair coiled and curly.
When a lye relaxer is applied, the caustic “lye cream” permeates through the protein structure of your hair to weaken and break down the internal chemical bonds that create a curl or wave. Once the relaxer is rinsed from your hair, it is neutralized with a specially formulated deactivator to stop the reaction and keep the lye from damaging your hair.
No-lye relaxers use a different formulation than lye relaxers to straighten your hair. The main ingredient in a no-lye relaxer is calcium hydroxide or guanidine carbonate. These ingredients are less harsh on the scalp than sodium hydroxide, which is used in lye relaxers. No-lye relaxers also tend to have a lower pH level, typically between 9 and 14, which means that they will not burn the scalp as quickly as a lye relaxer will.
The disadvantages of no-lye relaxers are that they may not be as effective as a lye relaxer in terms of straightening your hair and can leave your hair feeling dry and straw-like. No-lye relaxers may also take longer to process, so it is important to follow the directions on the box and not overprocess your hair. This can cause serious damage to your hair, including brittleness, hair loss and even bald spots.
Another concern with no-lye relaxers is that they can leave behind excessive amounts of calcium deposits in the hair, which requires regular use of chelating shampoos to remove them. This can lead to stiffness and a hardening of the strands that makes your hair look dull and limp.
Both types of relaxers can be harmful to the hair and scalp if overused or not properly used, so it’s important that you stick to the recommended time periods on the box and have your hair relaxed by a licensed professional. Using too many relaxers in a short period of time can severely damage your hair and strip the natural oils from your strands, leading to dryness, brittleness and hair loss.
Hair relaxers are a great tool for those with tightly coiled or curly hair that cannot be straightened by using an electric straightener. However, it is important to remember that relaxing your hair is a chemical process and can have serious health consequences if not done correctly. It is also important to follow the recommended time frames for processing and use a thorough rinsing regimen to avoid overprocessing your hair. With the right care, your hair can be both strong and healthy! —By: Stephanie B.
How should I care for my hair after getting a relaxer?
After relaxing, it’s important to keep your hair well-conditioned, avoid excessive heat styling and chemical treatments, and follow a good hair care routine to protect your hair from damage and maintain its health.
Can relaxers damage my hair and scalp?
Yes, improper use or overprocessing can cause damage, including brittleness, hair loss, or scalp burns, so proper application and following recommended processing times are crucial for maintaining healthy hair.
Are relaxers safe to use and what precautions should I take?
Relaxers can be harmful if overused or improperly applied; it’s important to follow directions carefully, avoid combining with other chemical treatments on the same day, and have them applied by a licensed professional for best results and safety.
What is the difference between lye and no-lye relaxers?
Lye relaxers contain sodium hydroxide and are the most common and strongest type, while no-lye relaxers use calcium hydroxide or guanidine carbonate, are gentler on the scalp, but may be less effective in straightening and can leave deposits that require special shampoos.
Hair relaxers are chemical products designed to permanently straighten very curly or coiled hair.1 The chemicals penetrate the hair shaft to break the disulfide bonds in the hair’s inner cortex layer.2 Once these strong protein bonds are broken, the hair can be physically re-formed into a straight pattern.3 A neutralizer is then applied to stop the chemical process and “lock” the bonds into their new, straight shape.
You are asking for a pre-relaxer checklist or guide based on the information provided. Here is a comprehensive list of what to know and do before a hair relaxer appointment.
Relaxer Prep 101: Your “Know Before You Go” Checklist
This list combines essential information on how to prepare your hair and scalp to minimize irritation and damage during the chemical process.
1. Hair and Scalp Safety Rules (The Week Of)
These steps are critical for preventing scalp burning and irritation, as the chemicals are highly alkaline.
- DO NOT Shampoo: Avoid washing your hair for at least 4 to 7 days before the relaxer. The natural oils (sebum) produced by your scalp act as a protective barrier against the harsh chemicals.
- DO NOT Scratch/Agitate the Scalp: Absolutely avoid scratching, aggressive combing, brushing, or excessive manipulation of your hair and scalp in the days leading up to the appointment. Even light scratching can create tiny cuts or abrasions that will sting or burn severely once the relaxer is applied.
- DO NOT Exercise Heavily: Avoid strenuous workouts or activities that cause excessive sweating for at least 48 hours before the service, as sweat can irritate the scalp.
- DO NOT Use Other Chemicals: Do not color, bleach, or use any other chemical treatment for at least one to two weeks before the relaxer, as the combination of chemicals can cause severe breakage.
2. Pre-Treatment Hair Conditioning (The Week Before)
Focus on strengthening and moisturizing your hair shaft, as the relaxer is a drying process that breaks down protein bonds.
- Protein Treatment: Perform a mild protein treatment 1 week before the relaxer. This helps reinforce the hair’s structure to withstand the chemical process. Follow up with a moisturizing deep conditioner immediately afterward.
- Deep Conditioning: Ensure your hair is well-hydrated. Apply a moisturizing deep conditioner or hair mask one week before the appointment.
- Detangle Gently: Ensure your new growth is thoroughly detangled the night before the service. This allows the relaxer to be applied quickly and evenly, but be extremely gentle to avoid irritating the scalp.
- Protect Previously Relaxed Hair: The night before or the day of, lightly apply a thick oil (like coconut or olive oil) or an oil-based conditioner to the length and ends of your previously relaxed hair. This protects it from “relaxer run-off” and over-processing.
3. During the Application (What to Expect)
If you are going to a stylist, these are things you should request or look out for.
- Ask for a Base: Make sure the stylist (or you, if self-relaxing) applies a thick protective cream, petroleum jelly, or a designated “base cream” (like Vaseline) to your entire scalp, hairline, nape, and around your ears. This is a crucial protective barrier.
- Application is Key: The relaxer should only be applied to the new growth (unprocessed hair) and should avoid overlapping onto the previously relaxed hair to prevent breakage at the line of demarcation.
- Never Feel Severe Burning: A slight tingling may occur, but if you feel a sharp or intense burning sensation, tell your stylist immediately to rinse it out. You should never leave a relaxer on until your scalp burns.
- Neutralizing is Mandatory: The relaxer process must be stopped with a neutralizing shampoo (often color-coded to show if any relaxer remains). This is vital to re-seal the hair cuticle and lock the hair into its new straight shape.
